Combine the white wine, water, half of the garlic, half of the ginger, soy sauce, red chili sauce/paste and cilantro stems. Bring up to a boil and reduce to a rapid simmer (about medium) for 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 450. If necessary prepare the fish, but if possible purchase it fully “dressed”, where your fishmonger removes the guts and innards for you. Butterflied is also nice since they remove the spine as well. If the spine is left in, it is easiest to remove after the fish is steamed.

Finely mince the remaining garlic and ginger with the salt and sesame oil. If possible use a mortar and pestle to mash it together into a paste-oil. Spread this mixture into each fish laying in a baking dish. Tuck in half of the cilantro leaves, if using. Fold the fish back together.

When the oven is hot and your aromatics are steeped, pour half of the liquid over the fish. Cover tightly with foil or a lid and place in the oven for 6-10 minutes, depending on the size of your fish.

If you have a stove-top or electric steamer use this instead, set to medium-high for about 6-10 minutes.

Continue to simmer the remaining aromatics on the stove top.

When the fish flakes lightly- it is done. Remove from the steeping liquid into a serving dish. Discard the fish-steeping liquid. Strain the remaining, freshly simmering liquid over the fish and serve with the remaining cilantro leaves.